A bridge between old world and new wine

In my last column, “Postcard: Mendoza,” so enthralled was I by my culinary experience in Argentina that I shamefully paid short shrift to one of the most noteworthy upcoming wine regions. For many wine enthusiasts, just discovering the wines of Argentina, it may come as a surprise to learn that Argentina is the fifth largest wine-producing country in the world and possesses a history of winemaking that dates back to the mid-16th century. Enduring 100 years of political turmoil and a rollercoaster economy has severely handicapped Argentinian producers from developing the caliber of high-quality wines generally associated with longstanding wine regions.

Largely due to the weak domestic market for fine wines, producers have been slow to realize the potential of their vineyards. Wineries were only able to survive by producing copious amounts of cheap wine. The nascent endeavors of some quality-minded producers to gain a reputation for their fine wines can be traced back to a measly decade ago. During the 1990s, Argentinian wine producers, after witnessing the astounding success of their Chilean neighbors, redirected their efforts away from the inexpensive, rustic wines consumed locally towards a more international, refined style of wine. They began seeking markets outside of their own depressed economies and found ample opportunity in the US and the UK. Foreign investment and expertise followed, flowing especially from the US and France, which helped to modernize the giant Argentine wine industry. As a result, many trade professionals now recognize the wines of Argentina as some of the best values in the marketplace.

Although the immigrants responsible for establishing the vast vineyards of Argentina came largely from countries with an old world approach to winemaking, including Italy, Spain, and France, the wines, sun-infused with nearly year-round clear skies, taste more akin to those from California than from Tuscany. The most sophisticated red wines of Mendoza show the backbone of their European-based family tree but bear the opulent fruit most often associated with California’s Napa Valley.

Admittedly, I am smitten with the wines of Argentina just for that reason—they are both structured and fruit forward. They provide an immensely enjoyable alternative for the wine consumer who finds Australian wines too fruity and European wines too dry. These are complete wines—just right for sipping on their own or as innovative matches when drunk with food. It is true that having recently spent a week touring the vineyards and wineries of Mendoza, the largest and most important wine region in Argentina, may have contributed to my current affection, but even prior to setting foot on the dusty soils of the sprawling vineyards of Mendoza, which scenically blanket the foothills on the east side of the Andes, I was already a big fan.

Malbec is undoubtedly Argentina’s most distinguished and celebrated wine. Almost single-handedly this dark-skinned grape has earned its homeland a reputation for outstanding wine. For wine newbies who may not have yet tried malbec, I would describe it as a wine that incorporates the best characteristics of both cabernet sauvignon and merlot all rolled into one. The deliciously rich taste of malbec with its signature flavors reminiscent of blackberries, currants, herbs, and chocolate endows even inexpensive offerings with immediate appeal. On the other hand, malbec has also won the approval of connoisseurs for its ability to make age-worthy, complex reds fit for the most persnickety collector’s cellar. Part of the excitement of exploring the malbecs of Argentina is that at any price level they rarely disappoint.

Although malbec is touted as the most prominent wine grape of Argentina, my recent samplings strongly suggest that cabernet sauvignon is emerging as a promising rival. Catena, Bressia, Terrazas, Susanna Balbo, and Californian winemaker Paul Hobbs are just a few of the producers who make concentrated, balanced cabernet or cabernet blends from Mendoza vines. (There are not so many producers on the market that you will find the choices overwhelming. Ask your local retailer what they recommend and you’ll be off to a good start.) I often suggest Alamos malbec as a consistently reliable introductory example, but there are many more now available for less than $10, including Los Altos Hormigas, Ocaso, Tikalo, Tomero, and Punto Final. Currently, for two startling values in cabernet, I recommend Cueva de las Manos and Pulenta, both for under $15.

It is an impossible task to cover an entire wine region in one article, but I would be greatly amiss if I did not encourage you to seek out a few examples of torrontes and bonarda. These two grapes are uniquely Argentinian and represent some delicious, not so heady wines. Highly aromatic, the white torrontes ranges in style from a slightly sweet, fruit salad type (Santa Julia and Quara are good examples) to a more refined, crisp and dry style like Don David’s beautifully balanced version. In either case, torrontes makes a flavorful, juicy white that makes for an excellent thirst quenching summer wine.

Bonarda was the great surprise of my trip to Mendoza. I had only known it as a red grape of Italian origin, capable of making simple, lusty reds with loads of fruit and not much else. There are a few of these on the market and they are greatly appreciated by wine consumers who prefer a soft, smooth red. However, they are essentially one-dimensional and I usually only drink them to offset spicy food or if I need a fun wine for large gatherings. I may have continued my impression of bonarda as the “montepulciano” of Argentina, if I had not, while in Mendoza, the pleasure of tasting wine made from 120-year-old bonarda vines. I was floored by the resemblance to the old vine, Californian red zinfandels. Deep liqueur-type fruit was laced with peppery spice and briary fresh raspberries. Yummy. If you can find one, buy it.

On a slightly sad, but I hope useful note, I think it worthwhile to convey one last impression garnered during my recent trek to Mendoza. Upon arriving, settling into our hotel, a few of us weary travelers decided to relax with a bottle of malbec purchased at a local supermarket. Unfortunately, that first bottle of wine uncorked in Argentina was not to be enjoyed as it was spoiled by cork taint or, as I learned in Spanish, the wine was corchado.

The wine, a 2003 Weinert Malbec Reserve coveted by wine professionals as an outstanding producer and wine, began with just a hint of this off-putting technical fault that debilitates the expression of the wine by muting both its aroma and flavor. Confusingly for the drinker, cork taint varies in the degrees to which it is detectable. This particular bottle, deceivingly, showed us glimpses of its glorious personality. Its treasure lie masked or buried, as it were, beneath the encroaching, musty smog.

Typically, professional tasters who detect a “corky” wine (reminiscent of moldy cardboard) will move on unhesitatingly to the next bottle, but in the relaxed setting of a cozy Mendoza hotel, no one was quite willing to make the gloomy pronouncement or hoof it back to the supermarket and exchange the bottle. Thus, we futilely swirled and sipped, hoping that what our noses detected would “blow off.” Finally, the musty odors overwhelm the wine confirming our worst suspicions.

I relay this little tale of disappointment in the hopes that I may help to debunk the myth that causes wine consumers to avoid entire categories of wine because of one “off” bottle. Imagine my foolhardiness if upon my first encounter with the malbecs of Argentina I had made the incorrect judgment that all malbecs are “musty.” Trust your palate, but proceed confidently, as the odds are the next bottle you open will taste heavenly. Wine drinking is after all as much about the thrill of discovery as it is about cherishing old acquaintances. Suffice to say, one should no more let their fear of being eaten by one’s fellow passengers inhibit a flight over the Andes than to cease drinking novel wines because of a single bad bottle. Explore and you will be rewarded. Salud.